![]() Align the plane’s body roughly lengthwise with the corner you’re chamfering. The process calls for two skills that take a little practice but aren’t at all hard to master: the cleanly planed chamfer and the lightly sanded roundover.įor long chamfers, guide the plane with both hands. Arts and Crafts goes to the other extreme with rectangular parts broken with sensible-sometimes bold-chamfers. Contemporary furniture, for example, usually wants crisp edges, which work fine if relieved adequately. Not all furniture should get the same edge treatment, however. Overdo it, and your heavily rounded edges will look like unskilled factory work. ![]() Do too little, and your furniture won’t look or feel finished. It’s quick work, but it needs to be done systematically. I use sandpaper or a block plane to relieve every edge of just about every part of my furniture. Basic milling and surface preparation come to mind, but for me, breaking edges is just as vital. I've replaced the arms and nose pads, and I think the metal frames, which have long since lost their original finish, will fall apart long before the lenses show signs of wear! I don't think plastic lenses promise this kind of performance, but I certainly know that coatings don't often last longer than 2-5 years if you wear them every day, even when following a careful cleaning regime.Some tasks in woodworking are so basic and crucial that they apply to virtually every piece of wood in a project. I use them for many hours a day in front of a computer. They are still clear and flawless, and noticeably better than coated glasses a year or so old. They are left on my desk, cleaned with anything I can find, basically not cared for in any special way. I still use them for most of every work day. I have a pair of high index GLASS (not plastic) lenses made more than 25 years ago which migrated from all-day use for probably 5+ years, to use at my desk for more than a decade. ![]() The coatings are the weak link in the chain. ![]() I think it is worth adding that some lenses, without coatings, can last almost forever. Never clean your glasses with alcohol or alcohol based soaps! These will strip away the coatings very quickly if you use them consistently. That's it - don't try any other do it yourself options. If you don't have access to lens cleaning cloth, then the only at-home material you should use would be an old soft cotton t-shirt (something that is several years old and through multiple wash cycles works best) and just a small amount of diluted Dawn dishwashing detergent will work in a bind. Your doctor's office will almost always provide free cleaning cloths and sprays for you to use so that you can keep a few in a purse or desk drawer. Kleenex and paper towels are made from wood fibers, so if you reach for one, just imagine rubbing your glasses with a stick from outside. These materials are much too rough and will wear away a surface coating fast. NEVER clean your glasses with tissue paper, rough washcloths, Kleenex, or paper towels. But if you clean your glasses with the wrong materials, you will eventually scratch and wear away the surface coatings. For myself, I lean into a microscope multiple times a day, so my glasses always have the rubber microscope eyepiece smudges to remove. Oils from your skin will easily collect and smear on the lenses. Tempted to clean your glasses on your coat or shirt? Don't! Yes glasses will smudge as you go through your day, especially if you frequently touch them or around your face.
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